I thought Topkapi Palace was something, especially the harem, but in retrospect, it doesn't really compare to the over-the-top Dolmabahce Palace. Built by Sultan Abdulmecid in the middle of the 19th century because Topkapi didn't have any modern facilities (i.e., electricity, toilets), it essentially sent in the Ottoman Empire into bankruptcy. It's also the famed place of Ataturk's death.
So Wednesday we met Prof. Sarah at 10:00 to take the bus down to Dolmabahce Palace. We wondered around the grounds for a bit, and then made for the entrance. Unfortunately its a guided tour thing so we had to move at the pace of tourguide or get pushed along or stopped by antsy security Turks. After navigating around a group of Korean tourists and a large group of children our tour began.
Here, let me give you a rundown of what we saw.
Gold
Crystal
Oil painting
Crystal
Oo, bear skins
Marble
Gold
Vase
Gold
Oriental Rugs
Gold
Gold
Yeah, lots of gold. Apparently 35 tons of it. Eh, you know, just one of my paychecks.
The oil paintings were an interesting side note. For one, Topkapi Palace or any other historic building of note from the Ottoman Empire, you will not find Western paintings. The Ottomans weren't big painters, they had tile, calligraphy, and other such art forms, while painting was a decidedly Western art form.
However, come 19th century, the Ottoman's were looking increasingly at modernization and meeting the rapid developments Western Europe. So hey, oil paintings cover Dolmabahce.
There were some interesting paintings though. Such as one of NYC back in the day and of Old Faithful in Yellowstone.
The most impressive room was decidedly the big hall with 3D paintings extending your depth preception with marble columns stretching high above and the biggest crystal chandelier you will ever see.
Oh, that reminds me! You have to pay 15 lira to film inside the Palace so I was like no way. But I snuck a few seconds of film because this hall was way to visually demanding not to. We all chipped in so that one of us could use a camera and then share the pictures. The price for a camera was 6 lira, so no quite as steep as a video camera.
I was glad when we did finish up touring Dolmabahce. It was kind of an overdose of wealth and opulence.
We then grabbed a quick lunch at a seaside cafe while some of our group was interviewed in Turkish by a Turkish writer for his fundamentalist Islamic newpaper. Yeah, I never got the full story behind this because I was sitting at the other end of the table.
Then we were off to the Military Museum so David and Kevin could do their site presentation. It was quite the interesting place, but it was definitely presented in such a way to give the Turkish military the best front possible. The museum consisted essentially of two main points. One was the Ottoman conquest of Istanbul. The other was modern Turkish military history.
The modern Turkish military history predictably highlighted Ataturk's role, the Battle of Gallipoli, and the Turkish War for Independence.
It's interesting to note that it takes two dead Turks to make it a massacre by Armenians or Cypriots. And as Kevin pointed out, the comparison of weapons used by the enemies of Turks (especially that bloody cleaver) and the weapons used by the Turks themselves.
We also got to see a recreation of an Ottoman Janissary band which was really neat and I got some great footage of it.
We then made a long trek back to our flat where we rested for a bit before making our way to Sarah and William's flat. We had another great feast made by William and played a few rounds of catchphrase.
On our way back, we stopped by a free concert being given at the private high school, Galatasaray, on Istiklal. This concert has been an ongoing three day event to commerorate the end of the school year I believe. Kristina, Kelly, and I stayed for a couple of songs but then called it quits being both exhausted and having lots of things to do back at the flat.
Today we had to meet at 9:30 and we were struggling out the door. Kelly, whose been nursing the crud for the pass few days, woke up feeling even worse so we had Yekta, who spent the night with us last night, call for a doctor in her perfect Turkish. We left Kelly and met Sarah on the way to Taksim Square.
We took a bus from Taksim to Bogazici University, the premier public university in Istanbul. It has great views overlooking the Bosphorus and its historic buildings were done in stone. Though I am a bit biased, UNC's campus is still much prettier despite lacking the great view of a body of water. We then held a class with Professor Pamuk on Turkey's 20th century development and current affairs. We then had a leisurely lunch with Prof. Pamuk. I ended up at a table with him, however I empty of any smart comments during that time, so I just kept my mouth shut and let Clayton do the talking. Good strategy.
We then met with one of their organizers of exchange students and study abroad programs because we had heard that a few of their students coming were coming to UNC next fall. We didn't get to meet the students because they were in the middle of exams, but we got their contact information.
Unfortunately, our group was starting to drop like flys. After leaving Kelly behind this morning, Edward started feeling bad, and then Zoe. With shifty eyes we kept a look out for the next person to fall ill. Luckily, the rest of us made it back relatively well after a long bus ride and a short walk back to the flat, picking up supper along the way. With depleted numbers we then had a Turkish lesson with Hande.
Hopefully with plenty of rest and meds tonight, everyone will feel 100% because we have a big day tomorrow. It's finally time for Hagia Sophia, Sultanahmet, and a hamam!!! A hamam is a Turkish bath...should be an interesting experience.
