Today started relatively early. Ugh. I was still pretty excited though, because we were going to Topkapi Palace! We've been around it, we've been over it, we've been under it, and we've been right at it's entrance; but we've never been in it.
Leslie Pierce, an expert on Ottoman harem culture led us around the palace. I've been in some pretty architecturally and decoratively impressive places, and I have to say the Topkapi Palace is up there with them, especially the harem section, which, in reality, is it's own palace.
A little bit of history on Topkapi Palace:
It was originally built in the 1460s by Mehmet the Conqueror after getting told that his palace/government building wasn't good enough by some Iranian prince. More and more was added on to it over the years. It's basically a linear palace; as you pass through the gates, it got increasing private. The harem was added by Suleyman the Magnificent after he fell in love and married his concubine. Before, the palace was male only, but Suleyman moved her into the palace and gradually the harem grew. The sultan's mother aka the Queen Mother eventually became very important as well in the palace and wielded much authority while residing in the harem.
The harem was not the stereotyped residence of a bunch of enslaved concubines. As stated, the Queen Mother ruled the harem and also wielded enormous influence in the Ottoman Empire. Concubines did live there and there were slaves. Also included in the harem were the mothers of all the princes, servants, attendants, and children, but it was essentially the residence of all the women in the palace.
The harem itself was almost overwhelming with room after room of blue-green Ottoman tile, domed ceilings, stained glass windows. These concubines and others were living the good life if what we saw was any indication. The harem was massive and we only saw a section of it. It was essentially a palace inside the palace.
Before going inside the harem though, we went into the sultan's private chambers where Islamic relics are now stored. Such relics included the prophet David's sword, you know, post-Goliath and whatnot. Also they had the prophet Moses' rod, which parted the waters of the sea - completely legit. And Muhammad's giant footprint. And his beard. And his tooth.
Muhammad had a large foot. Just to say. He also wielded a huge sword.
While we were walking through this section, also decorated with blue and green tile work the Ottoman's are so well-known for, they had an iman read the Qur'an out loud and projected through speakers. Oh, and no photography or videoing allowed. They had hundreds of people file through these few rooms including bunches of school children. They had some information up in Turkish, English, and Arabic and it was interesting to read the Islamic version of events I'm so familiar with through both secular and Christian history. Also apparently the prophet Joseph (you know, him of the technicolor dreamcoat) was the hottie of his day in Islamic tradition.
So we have a highly attractive Joseph, David's sword, Moses's Rod, and Muhammad's footprint, beard, and tooth.
The real question: is it legit? We came to the conclusion that it really doesn't matter because Muslims believe it's for real. Science may not get a chance to put their hands on it to say one way or another, but as long as Islamic tradition says its legitimated then that means everything.
After the palace, it was pretty late and Kelly, Edward, and I were starving so we left the others behind. We quickly navigated our way to a relatively cheap restaurant for the touristy area we were in. We met this family there from Florida that for some reason, I can't quite put my finger on it, really annoyed me. I also, for the first time, had to use one of those hole in the ground toilets that Turkey seems to think is a good idea. Eh, no thanks.
We then met Mr. Delicious at the bakery next door. He was a rotund Turkish man that, I do have to say, knows how to make good baklava so I'll let him keep the name he gave us when we were introduced. Maybe we'll see Mr. Delicious again.
Following that, we took a leisurely stroll back to our flat where I fell asleep for a late afternoon nap with the French Open playing on the TV and a slightly chilly breeze coming in from Bosphorus. Later, most of us grabbed a bite to eat at the two cafes that our right at our flat where we are quickly became regulars. They served us tea today, free of charge!
Right now I'm stressing about all the work that seems to be falling on us that I had put out of my mind when I first arrived here. I keep having to remind myself that this is not some grand vacation, but a UNC honors program. There is a reason that we're meeting all these experts, artists, and historians. At the same time, I went this to be all about the Turkish fun and experience as it is summer. Hmmm, dilemma.
