Today, we went to Asia.
It's not all that different from Europe to be honest. At least in Istanbul. How amazing is it, as David put it, when you eat lunch in Europe, attend happy hour in Asia, and are back in Europe for supper.
Here's the quick version of what happened:
Met at our apartment terrace, obtained akbils to travel the public transport system, used it to get on the ferry, journeyed across the Bosphorus, walked through a food market, walked through a jam-packed clothes and accessories market, walked through a weekly vegetable and fruit market, separated, had a beer, when back to get vegetables and fruit, returned to our apartment, and had supper via candlelight (cooked by Kristina) on our terrace.
Before all that however, I have to explain the happiness that is the doner sandwich. You can find these all over Istanbul for a variety of prices, but they will always be under five lira. Right outside of our apartment, considering its a less well traveled road, there is a cafe that sells doner for only one lira. That's less than a dollar folks. You can't even get a cheeseburger at McDonald's for that price. All doner is, is chicken, lamb or beef, which they roast on a spit often right on the street, shaved off into small pieces and sandwiched between any variety of types of bread. You can get it with a variety of toppings depending on the place. I just like to avoid having ketchup or mayonaise on mine thank you very much.
"No sauce!"
"No salad?"
"Yes salad, no sauce!"
"No salad?"
"No, no sauce."
"Salad?"
"Yes salad."
"Oh okay."
That is the essential conversation when it comes to getting doner. Salad is lettuce btw.
Doners and other street food is definitely the way to go when on a budget.
The ferry ride was enjoyable, especially with use of the akbils, which for some reason, I believe we all find fascinating. Though truthfully they aren't all that different then tradition card swipes or flex passes, but for whatever reason, they're a lot more fun. The akbils will allow us to use the trams and ferries to navigate Istanbul, which will be a super convenient way to get around.
I believe it will also be the best way to travel around like real Istanbullus.
Our goal...my goal...while in Turkey is to understand the daily passions and lives of its people, and traveling like one would be sure to help. Not to mention a lot easier than walking everywhere, and how else are we supposed to get to Asia? Though nothing is going to take away our uphill climb and five flights of stairs it takes to reach our flat. Bummer.
I was struck by two very different while in Asian Istanbul.
One was the sure overwhelming suffocation while pressing through the multiplicity of goods that made up the daily market at the bottom of a hill. I've been in cities before, and crowded places (Franklin Street after a big victory anyone?), but never before have I felt the suffocation I felt today in this market. I somewhat of an intention in buying a cheap watch while in the market, but as soon as we entered, pressed in together on all sides by people and the wares, all I could think about was getting out. There was very little space to move, and it was like a vacuum of hot, sweaty bodies pressed together with no room for actual air. Somehow, Zoe, Kristina, and I ended up managing to get from one end to another together.
Where was the A/C spacious shopping mall? Hell, where was the Wal-Mart?
I've been in markets before, and generally I enjoy them. My favorite one is in Charleston, there in the historic district. But this, today, it was an entirely different experience. Perhaps it was because there was no immediate escape available; you actually have to travel from one end to another. Perhaps it was the sun, and the sheer number of people. I don't know.
But this is Istanbul and it's people. You can find your discount Abercrombie & Fitch T-shirts in the market. Or a watch. Or bras. It's a mall, without A/C and ill-planned. But it's a mall without fixed prices, and somehow it makes sense even in a modern Istanbul.
The other feeling I experienced in Asia? A contentedness not unlike the antithesis of Orhan Pamuk's huzun (a melancholy of sorts) Istanbul.
We split up again after leaving the market, and together with Edward, David, Kelly, and Kristina, I went to get a beer to recover from the experience. At some point, while sitting in a sidewalk cafe drinking the Turkish version of Bud Light (or maybe Coors Light) called Efes, we officially decided that we would cook for supper for the evening. Or specifically, Kristina would cook for supper.
With purpose we returned to the market, to its myriad of fruits and vegetables. It's different when you have a set goal in mind. This part of the market was a weekly thing, Tuesday and Friday's only. With its smells, natural colors, and free samples via American-curious sellers, it was actually refreshing.
Riding the ferry back, coasting along with the blue-green waters of the Bosphorus splashing around us, a cool wind, and fresh produce in hand...Oh yeah, it was chill. And Asia was awesome.
So was supper which we ate on the terrace, the moon hanging over us and the lights of the city reflecting off the water and our only light issuing forth from a multitude of candles.
We won't get into the details on the cooking wine the boys unearthed in their apartment. Cooking wine should only ever be cooked with, though it tastes a bit different when you shout serefe together.
Cheers.
